Celebrated British-Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja was among 10 climbers killed after an avalanche struck Broad Peak in Pakistan, according to his expedition company and officials.
Elite Expeditions said it confirmed "with profound sadness and immense heartbreak" that Purja died following the avalanche that hit the multinational climbing team on Thursday.
Pakistani authorities said rescue operations remain underway, with several bodies identified but still awaiting recovery because of the difficult terrain on the mountain.
Officials said the avalanche struck the expedition on Broad Peak, one of the world's highest mountains, in Pakistan's Gilgit-Baltistan region.
Search teams recovered three bodies on Friday, while drone surveillance later helped identify the remaining victims.
Authorities said the bodies were located in an area that remains difficult to access safely.
Officials added that recovery operations were continuing, with rescuers balancing the challenges of the terrain and the safety of personnel involved.
The victims included six climbers from Nepal and others from Pakistan, Oman, the United States and China.
Pakistani officials had earlier identified recovered climbers including American Mallory Geis, Oman's Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy and Nepal's Pur Bahadur Gurung.
Elite Expeditions said it had also confirmed that other members of the expedition did not survive.
Purja, 43, gained international recognition after climbing the world's 14 peaks above 8,000 metres in just over six months in 2019, setting a record for the fastest completion of the feat.
A former Gurkha and British special forces soldier, he later became widely known through the documentary "14 Peaks: Nothing Is Possible."
Nepal Prime Minister Balendra Shah said the deaths had shocked the country, adding that "the history of their courage, dedication and contributions will always remain alive and inspiring."
UK Defence Secretary Wes Streeting described Purja as "an inspirational man" whose mountaineering achievements were known worldwide.
In a social media post published before the expedition, Purja wrote that climbing Broad Peak had not originally been planned but had become part of his effort to become the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice without supplemental oxygen.